Joan
 Ubide
 Photography
 &
 a
 few
 sounds

Writing about a great country like China using only a few lines is impossible. However, I think a good way of sharing this new stage is giving a few details about its people, because they’re without a doubt the best I’ve seen there.

They may have peculiar habits that we “westerners” consider shocking, amusing, and even disgusting. Things like sitting squatting anywhere, being totally unrespectful at queuing, going for a walk at seven in the evening in pajamas, wearing t-shirts rolled over the belly to stand the heat, and how noisy they are at eating (well, of course they are- noodles are hot and spicy!) I would also stress that few of them know what wastepaper bins are for, and finally, of course, their spectacular spits… When we first got there, every time we heard one of them behind us we thought the spit would land straight on us, but luckily we discovered that they are sharpshooters.

Apart from all these “curiosities”, I must say that during these two months of walking through the popular and recondite places of Chinese cities and villages, I have only received true smiles and bows when I encountered someone. It’s like a ritual and respectful greeting. They’re very nice people, sincerely admirable.

China is a country of great contrasts, especially in big cities. You can walk along a spectacular and pristine avenue, with 10 people sweeping the street in front of the big shops, and suddenly turn into a bystreet and find yourself into an underworld where live all those who will never buy anything in the designer shops. These people eat in the streets and hang their clothes over your head while you look, astonished, at how they keep smiling even though their lives are hard and miserable compared to ours.

I’ve seen three completely different Chinas: modern China, underground China, and rural China.

Modern China, with its impressive infrastructures, is all about new spectacular buildings. I have to highlight the capital, Beijing, a city which lives with an eye to the next Olympic Games. These Olympics may deserve a critical reflection. Sometimes I wonder what price are paying all those who have come to work long hours to get the city ready for the Olympics, especially when you manage to have a look at one of the construction sites and see, in the distance, where the thousands of men who have moved to the city for the event live badly.

Notwithstanding my ignorance, I think it’s rather illogical that the Olympics take place in this country, a country which has improved a lot, it has become more modern, it has open to the world, but where there is still censure and where some human rights are not observed. I don’t want to write anymore about it… These opinions belong to the experts; I’m only a traveler who shares a few lines and pictures with friends and family to let them know I’m ok. Anyway, China seems to be improving its negative issues, and I’m sure the next Olympics will be a great event and a great progress for the country, just like they were for my country in Barcelona 92.

“Underground” China is what you find when you enter a bystreet. It’s amazing, streets and corners with good people everywhere, the most fascinating side of the travel. Here you won’t find the workmen planting thousands of flowers or sweeping the sidewalks. Here people are sitting in the streets, making a living selling cheap imitations and excellent food. We ate there everyday for only 1 Euro.

If you visit the country, don’t hesitate to buy food from the street stalls, you run the same risk of indigestion if you eat in a standard restaurant. If you are the sybarite type, you are in luck- a great feast in a good restaurant is only 20-30 Euro.

Rural China, although I haven’t seen much of it, is unique. Fascinating landscapes, difficult to describe with words. I felt I had already been there; those landscapes were familiar to me… Then I realized it was because all Chinese restaurants in Spain have pictures of these landscapes hanging on the wall. So, you see, these are real landscapes, and you have to discover them without hurries, riding a bike and feeling how you face changes into a smile of satisfaction (at least that was the feeling I had). It’s like a fairy tale, and your mind can’t stop working to soak up every detail.

China is the perfect place to mix with the locals, so the best way of moving around is by bike. Big cities have bike lanes, and in small cities you only have to follow the herd. You have to know the traffic rules, though: first goes the truck, then the bus, the motorbike and finally the bicycle. Pedestrians get the worst of it; they have to get literally around the traffic. Be very careful, they don’t brake… The first day, my mate Gadea collided with a motorbike, as their driving consists of approaching one to another until one of the drivers brakes. Of course, they sound the horn to let you know they’re coming closer. In Spain, if a driver sounds the horn, the thing usually ends up with several drivers calling each other names…

Tips:

You can move around most of China by train, although local flights are very cheap (around 50-150 Euro). Chinese trains are good, and those connecting cities like Beijing and Shanghai are modern and very fast. If you visit the country, you may like to know that there are three classes of tickets. The “seat” is only a seat, inadvisable for long trips (more than 15 hours or night trips). They’re very cheap, though (we paid 6 Euro for a 16 hour trip). Second class is called “hard sleep”, and consists of compartments without door, with 6 rather hard beds. It’s not a bad option, and you can meet people. If someone in the coach speaks English, you will have them there in 10 minutes to talk to you. Finally, you have “soft sleep”, 4-bedded private compartments (20 hour trip: 40 Euro).
In big cities you may find someone who speaks English.

In small towns, forget about it.

It is also advisable to bring along a map in Chinese if you have to buy train tickets. Take into account that Chinese cities have very similar names, and you may not know how to pronounce them properly. However, the best option to get your tickets is to have the people of the place where you slept the last night to write down the name of your next destination in Chinese, so that you only have to show the piece of paper when buying your ticket. Attention: the first week of October is a national holiday, and moving around is not easy.

The route:

From the capital of Mongolia, we started our Chinese route in Beijing (I recommend the Leo Hostel). From there, we took several trains to Shanghai, Xi’an and, finally, Yichang, where we took a ship for 4 days to cross the three defiles of the Yangtze river to Chongking (the cruise was in a totally Chinese ship, we paid only 70 Euro, and we were the only ones with round eyes, an excellent experience! There are also great tourist cruises, but for 300 Euro…).

From Chongking we headed to Guilin by train, and then took another ship for 5 hours to Yangshuo (spectacular journey). It’s advisable to travel in popular ships: 25 Euro, meal included. You can spend a few days in Yangshuo, but I recommend The Guiggling Tree Guest House (www.gigglingtree.com). It’s a farmhouse which has been refurbished by a Dutch couple. It’s lost in a nice spot, surrounded by rounded mountains and only at 5 km from the city centre, perfect for moving around by bike. After enjoying nature in Yangshuo, we took a bus to Guilin (15 Euro), a train to Kunming (interesting city, I recommend The Hump Hostel, www.thehumphostel.com, bed from 2.5 Euro, good location, excellent atmosphere). From Kunming we took a train to Dali (old Dali, very recommendable), and yet another train to Lijiang, and then we headed North by bus, until Chengdu, where you can get the train to Lhasa, capital of Tibet. Before that, you have to stop in Lijiang and Shangri-La, with fascinating places, although they can’t be reached by train. I don’t know if we will enter Tibet via Chengdu or by bus through the Tibetan Mountains, as the weather has worsened, it’s been raining for one week… Anyway, I’ll let you know next time…

During those two months we have met and shared lots of new friends, especially Jason (who was with us in Russia), Daphne (Ciao!), Team Australia, the three computer programmers from Madrid, Cesar from Sant Cugat and Tim, who were with us in Yangshuo, Lidia, Alba la galleguiña, the two crazy girls who are crossing China by bike… Anita and her friend (I’m sorry, I couldn’t say bye!), Michelle, our Hawaiian friend, Gabriel, Silvia and Ana from Madrid and many more… A big hug to all of them! I’m sorry if I forget someone, I’m very bad at names.

And finally…
The currency is the Yuan, easy for European and US travelers:
10 Yuan = 1 Euro.
As in any other country, keep an eye on your wallet in tourist and crowded places.

Photography:

I have created three albums about China (Urban, Underground and Natural). You can find them in the Portfolio Albums section. Choose the album you’re interested in, click Play and take it easy. I hope you like it and that you can learn a bit more about this great country.

Don’t hesitate to write any questions in the comments section.

And that’s all for China… So, if you want to know more about our trip, in a few weeks I’ll bring to your screens the Tibet region… Don’t worry, I don’t think I shave my head and change my camera for eternity in a lost temple- I like my backpack and the only jeans I have with me.