Joan
 Ubide
 Photography
 &
 a
 few
 sounds

Here I said good-bye to the barren region of the North to head towards a different India.

I started in Goa, the smallest region, but also the most visited by tourists.

Goa looked to me like the Dominican Republic –palm trees, resorts, beautiful beaches, but it was all too “set up” for tourists. That wasn’t the India I had known in places like Varanasi, Delhi or any other city in Rajasthan. That’s not India.

Anyway, if you look for something, you finally find it.

In Goa I saw most of its beaches and cities, beginning with Anjuna. Here I got tired of all those poor people who make a living selling souvenirs and bracelets, even when you’re sleeping, they start their typical barrage of questions:

Country sir?
First time in India?
What’s your name?
Do you want to see my shop?

Or

Massage?

Or

Do you want me to clean your ear? Those were very funny. At 30 m they stared at your ear with a worried face, as if there was something wrong with your ear. Then they would say that you had soap in you ear, and that they could clean it… Right, let’s see, how the hell can you see the soap in my ear at 30 m?!

And that’s like 20 times a day. Grrrxxxrrr!!!

I felt bad about it, because they’re good people trying to make a living with tourists… However, it’s a mistake, because they scare people away.

Anyhow, if you ever travel to Goa, I recommend the south, specially Palolem. There you can find the Palolem beach, where there’s less “harassing” and hundreds of places to sleep and eat… Close by there are places like Agonda, where you’ll feel much more relaxed.

It’s worth visiting Panjim, Vasco de Gama, Margao and Chaudri, cities which are well connected by bus (always crowded). The driver cries out the destination of the vehicle, and it’s a very cheap means of transport (50 km, 1-2 hours, for 40 rupees, less than 1 Eur). However, if you are scared of risky overtaking manoeuvres, you better get a taxi. Driving in India is very different from ours. Last second manoeuvres to avoid a truck, car, motorbike or cow, are the daily bread.

I recommend renting a motorbike once you have decided where you are staying. You’ll have to bargain, and it can cost about 150-300 rupees per day (3 to 6 Eur). It’s definitely the best way to see the area.

From Palolem I took a train to the south, and in two hours I set foot in Gokarna, in the Karnataka region.

Gokarna is much purer and genuine, and cheaper, like everywhere else in India.

It’s a small town, with very nice people and an endless, calm beach. It’s a good place if you’re looking for some quietness.

In Gokarna I recommend the Flower Garden Café, a very, very, very simple place, facing the sea, and it’s a very charming place, for only 150 rupees, less than 3 Eur.

Karnataka is an interesting region. I explored it by bus with Bàrbara, my “all-terrain” travel companion, bordering the coastline. We used to stop when we saw a nice beach, even if it wasn’t close to a village. The people from the bus found this very amusing, and looked at us as if we were nuts. In two weeks I didn’t see a single tourist, and felt very welcome by locals. When they see you, they inform the rest of the clan saying “foreigner, foreigner”. They find it funny, and ask you where you come from, if it’s the first time you’re in India… Most of them are fishermen, and you really enjoy their company, specially that of children.

Children in India leave a mark on you and show you to appreciate what you have. I’m not a children person, but I must admit that I was dazed by their smile and shiny eyes. I’ve lived unforgettable experiences with them. In Goa I collaborated with a reception center which works to get the kids out of the streets and feed them. They were all queuing holding their plates, waiting to have their Dal (rice with a sauce). They eat it with their hands, sitting in an orderly way on the floor, and when they finish they wash the dish and offer you a “Thank you” and a smile.

I also visited the place where they lived, under plastics and with no possessions, something extreme when the monsoon rains arrive.

India is growing non-stop and nearly out of control. Poor families have from 4 to 5 children, so it won’t take too long for India to become the most inhabited country of the globe.

The country grows in poorness, but there is also an increase in rich people, it’s a country where there are more rich people than inhabitants has Spain. Social classes are more and more far apart, with the rich getting richer, and the poor getting poorer. And every time they’re more influenced by western culture. That’s very shocking. You are watching TV and see American-style rap singers, with girls barely dressed, while on the streets you see most women cover their whole bodies in traditional Indian clothes. There was even an issue about a cricket team which was banned to have cheerleaders… seemingly they altered the peace. Well, the girls were really hot western blondes, and their movements were rather “entertaining”… They decided to make them wear trousers under their short skirts and the problem was solved.

Let’s go back to the route…

When I arrived in the south of the Karnataka region, I traveled from Mangalore to the interior of the country, to Madikeri and Kushalnagar, where I visited an area with exiles from Tibet. From there I headed to Mysore, where I recommend a visit to the market. Getting far to the south, in the Tamil Nadu region, there are Udagamandalam and Coonor, a good place to see national parks and vast tea plantations. Even far to the south, Coimbatore, and finally again the coast, where I reach the Kerala region, concretely Fort Cochi, a very interesting place, very advisable. Then I headed to Alapuzza, where you can find the famous backwatters, long channels where you can sail in the so-called home boats, sybarite but very recommendable. From there I went by boat to the south, to reach Kollam, and afterwards by bus to Varkala, a tourist zone where Ayurveda medicine is practiced.

I crossed Kerala and made it to the far end of India, where I visited Kanyakumari, a fishermen village which suffered the Thailand tsunami. From there to Madurai, where I found again “North India”. From Madurai I took a train to Chennai to go to the Andaman Islands.

And that’s all. I spend a couple of weeks in the Andaman Islands (I suggest you Hawelock Island) but was a disaster with the Birma Typhoon…, from there to Calcutta, then a few days in Varanasi, Delhi and a new stage, visiting Iran. From there I’ll head to Turkey, and then I’ll try to make it to Amorgos, in Greece. I’d love to visit the place, because it was there where most of the film “The Great Blue” was set, a great classic for those who love the sea. A beautiful place to finish this year of travel and photography.

So, if you want to visit the whole of India, you need a lot of time, years. However, after 6 months here I can give you some basic advice.

If you come to India for a couple of weeks, get a taxi; if you are planning to stay in the country for a couple of months, use also the train, bus and plane; but if you really have plenty of time, travel light, and buy a second-hand Vespa. You can get one for only 60/100 Euro, and it’s the best way to enjoy the country. You can even get it on the train for a few rupees. When you finish you visit, you can send the Vespa home for 300 Eur, and resell it in your country for about 1,200 Eur. Now they’re in!

From Greece I’ll travel back home, to attend the weeding of my great friend Gerard and Carmeta. There’ll be plenty of free booze, I guess!

However, it would have been only one year. A great year.

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As usual, I give shape to this words with pictures, the point of my “adventure”.
You can see them in the Portfolio and albums section.

Best regards to all the friends I’ve found along the way, and specially to Kiko and Laura, when I get home I’ll finally meet Claudia.